Bonfit Fitted Shirt #2: The last Bonfit Bodice Adventure

Nothing worthwhile comes easy... This proves it. I'm getting closer to a nice fitted shirt. Here's pics of the changes I made to the last pattern. You can see I've overlayed the new pattern over it and used a red pencil to make changes. On the front piece, I've done the following:

1. Added to the front hem.
2. Moved the bust point down about 1/4"
3. Removed 1/4" from the shoulder slope.
4. Cut in the front armhole about 1/4"
5. Reshaped the dart.
6. In addition, after I tried it on, I reshaped the dart making it straight from the waist down to the hem.
7. Took in about 1/4" from the area below the dart. I reshaped the side seam a little and tapered it back out at the hip.

On the back piece, I made the following adjustments:

1. Made the upper part of the dart almost 2" longer.
2. Added a tiny bit to the across back width.
3. Removed 1/4" from the shoulder slope.
4. Did a sway back adjustment, thus added a bit more to the bottom hem as well. (might be a little too much).
5. Added 1/2" extra back hip space at the side seams.
6. Also took in an additional 1/2" at the center back. Give it a little more shape.

Okay, now here's the worst part. After I did all this redrafting, I decided to use the instruction sheets from a drafting class I took several years ago. It was taught by an older Japanese lady famous for her skills. The sloper I made then fit very well and I designed quite a few things from it. Then I had another baby and it got lost at my mother's house, only to be recovered this past week.

Anyway, I took the instructions for the sleeve (I was terribly disappointed with Bonfit's version and could not see how I could improve it) and drafted the sleeve from that. I got a comfortable fit, and only slight problems. The puckering is my fault, there is just enough ease in the cap, but I wanted to get this done so I quickly sewed it in. The twist in the front? I'm not sure yet, but it's not too bad and I'm sure I can figure it out. Any suggestions?

The back has a few wrinkles and I'm not sure if it's just caught up on my jeans or if more work needs to be done. But I'm a bit fed up with this shirt and would like to move on already.

So... Bonfit's bodice patterner works well enough for a loosely fitted garment, but I will never again use it for anything fitted. It's just way too much work to make all the adjustments for a decent fit.

I'm giving up on Bonfit Bodice and will return to the good old fashion dressmaker's rule, big sheets of paper, and a good sharp pencil. Oh... I have to make at least ONE shirt from this mess. Just so I have something to show for all this work.