Bonfit basic shirt - attempt #1

And now I've decided that in order to get to REALLY know the Bonfit patterners, I'll have to go through the whole process and do each of their basic garments. Today, I drafted the basic shirt pieces. This one has no darts and is not fitted at all. It is simply a shirt and I don't really like a lot of things about this pattern.


First, here's a picture:



I followed the directions and here's what I found:

1. There are vague areas that could've been improved by adding pages to refer to. Example: the drafting of the placket placement should be done when the sleeve is drawn. It has no reference as to where to put it, but the info can be found elsewhere in the book. I think it was on page b40.


2. The instruction manual needs to be edited. Directions refering to the sleeve cap widening/narrowing on page b31 are misprinted. "If you want less blousing at the sleeve cap or have changed the shoulder width so that you need a wider sleeve cap:" should read Narrower instead of wider.


3. The button stand is way too wide. I realized this when I drafted, but continued on anyway so that I'd have a shirt to show using the method. It should be half of what it is.


4. The front length is too short, but this might be just my body/and preference.


5. The collar is too big. I did adjust it to make the top edge straight instead of curved, but I think it would still be too big and pointy for me.


6. The cuffs fall too low. I adjusted the shirt sleeve pattern as it states in the directions, and removed the extra for the cuff, but I think it would look even better with a bit more removed.


7. The sleeve twists forward. This is usually true of most basic straight sleeved patterns. I don't like this and usually make an adjustment by shifting the whole sleeve piece about 1/4"-1/2" towards the back. It helps eliminate that twist wrinkle. I didn't do it here.


8. Across the front is too wide. I'll need to cut about 1/2" into the front bodice in order to get rid of the wrinkle.


9. It hangs... but then, I expected this because I didn't make a fitted blouse. I like it darted and fitted at the waist and will do another one with those adjustments.


10. The back... same thing. I'd like it fitted, but this is the way this one should be, and it almost fits okay across the shoulders and upper back. I think it might need just a tiny bit more space across the shoulders.

Alrighty, I'm off to redo the shirt in a more fitted version, with all those corrections listed above. Hopefully I'll be back with a well-fitting garment using the Bonfit. Wish me luck!

I'm also working on Kenneth King's Moulage CD book with hopes of having something even better... let's see what works.